Wednesday, June 20, 2012

“Sunset sailing on April skies / Bloodshot fire clouds in your eyes / I can't say what I might believe / But if God made you, he's in love with me”


Back in Cameroon, I threw myself into the large-scale Books for Cameroon regional project.  While I had been on vacation, the shipping container had cleared customs which meant we were finally in possession of the 21,000+ books!  I missed my fair share of the book-sorting, but was able to pitch in for the last few days – a major undertaking to say the least.  With several volunteers rallying for the final push, the work went quickly.  It helped that all this was being done in Batié, a town 4 kilometers from me.  That community really rallied and supported the project by offering building space, helping with meals, and contributing boxes during the final round-up.

The days leading up to the ceremony were busy with last-minute details and Cristina, the volunteer who coordinated it, deserves recognition.  The kids in my neighborhood contributed by coming to my house and making American, Cameroonian, and French flags (les drapeaux).







April 11th was probably my busiest day in country.  Having spent the night at Cristina’s to assist with final preparations, I woke up early and booked it back to Bapa for our monthly Vaccination Day presentation.  After that, members of the high school’s Health Club (Club Santé) came to the Health Center.  Along with my counterpart and another volunteer, we had an engaging discussion about HIV/AIDS (VIH/SIDA for those francophones keeping track).  The nurse was passionate and enthusiastic and, although I’m not entirely sure all the information she was spouting was correct, I was glad to have the support.  Then, the students all got tested (dépistage du VIH).

We quickly made our way to Batié for the Books for Cameroon ceremony.  Many people were already loading up their share of books, and people were obviously proud standing around the vehicles burgeoning with boxes destined for their communities.  In typical Cameroonian fashion, the ceremony didn’t even come close to starting on time.  We waited several hours and the frustration was palpable among the students and guests – many of whom had been there since morning.  Eventually, the “dignitaries” (Peace Corps staff as well as local chiefs) arrived one-by-one.  Those organizing the event gave the cue for the speeches to start, and the Sous-Prefet arrived.  Five hours tardy, the Prefet made his appearance (though, in his defense, at least he apologized).  The Chief of Batié gave a speech and, in a grand gesture, named Cristina a queen – a very high honor.  She received the traditional garb and headdress, and I was bursting at the seams with excitement for her.  Distinguished guests were invited to a dinner and then, back at Cristina’s house, the party continued.  After all that had gone into the project, it was so good to relax and celebrate with other volunteers.      


    

Newly-crowned Queen Cristina

A few days later, my village arranged for our books to be picked up and brought to Bapa.  Here, school boys carry the boxes the last leg of the trip.

Following up on the HIV tests, I was ecstatic to learn that none of the 28 Health Club members had tested seropositive!  In other youth development work, I got to announce to the high school staff that four bright young ladies were the recipients of A2Empowerment scholarships for the 2012-2013 school year.   

I went to Yaounde mid-month as the regional representative of Peace Corps Cameroon’s Health Steering committee.  I went a few days early since I had arranged beforehand to serve as the featured speaker during EducationUSA’s monthly public offering at the US Embassy on higher education opportunities in America.  I spent a few lazy days in Yaounde watching movies and relishing the company of other volunteers as we cooked, went shopping, and generally just chilled.  I got to better know some of the newer volunteers and we took in Happy Hour at the Hilton Hotel.      

A few friends wanted to do a bit of travel, so we headed back to the West together and I showed off Bafoussam in all its dilapidated glory.  Coming from the North though, it was like a different world to them, and that shock continued as we went to my village.  The hills, the red dirt, the sheer greenness of everything (“It literally hurts my eyes” Jeff exclaimed) – it’s easy to forget how diverse this country is when you’re used to seeing your same portion of land.  Another volunteer joined us and we feasted on delicious faux Indian food chez moi: naan, peanut/ginger/carrot curry, a spicy potato dish, and rice.  They had been warned about how cold it was up in the mountains, but the weather cooperated and we sat out in my courtyard to enjoy the stars, fresh air, and music.  The next day, they helped lead a wine-making demonstration at a friend’s house in Bapa.  We made a large batch of foleré (hibiscus flowers) and a small bottle of pineapple (anana) and I was amazed at how simple it is to ferment things.

I only had one day of down-time before I was off again.  First, there was a wedding party for a volunteer in our region who had married a Cameroonian a few weeks prior.  With music, paper crowns, and the news that she had recently learned she was pregnant, it was an extremely jovial celebration!  We prepared four times as much food as was necessary, which meant stuffing ourselves on a Mexican meal of tortillas, beans, guacamole, mango salsa, fajita peppers, and rice.  We still managed to make room to snack on cookies, chips, and cheese though – while oohing and ahhing over the dress and wedding pictures.

The next morning, we were up early to head to Bamenda in the Northwest region.  From there, it was another vehicle to the town of Jakiri for a tofu demonstration.  Having been there last year, it was good to see that the road was better than before, but it still took awhile coupled with multiple stops at check-points.  True to Murphy’s Law though, right as we put the soaked beans in the grinding machine the power cut out.  We waited a few hours but eventually had to go with an alternative plan – paying someone to grind the 3 kilos by hand!  Due to the delay, the demonstration started late, but it went well.  Sadie, the volunteer there who had requested the soy expertise of Marcelle and I, had arranged for a car but it wasn’t ready for us as promised so we had to wait for another.  After a long day of cramped travel, we pulled into Bangui for the night where the volunteer there welcomed us with tomato soup, salad, and banana cake. 

We set off the next day for Fundong (yup, that’s a real place), but of course had to stop half-way there to change the brakes.  After a quick bite to eat, we found motos to take us up to Abuh –20+ minutes straight up a mountain.  The volunteer there, Sam, had arranged for us to do a soy presentation with her Girls Club and people from the local health center.  Abuh is possibly the most beautiful post I’ve seen in Cameroon, but it’s also extremely remote.  With no cell phone service or electricity, Sam is an absolute champ.  Not only does she not mind doing without these, you can tell she absolutely loves her village.  The tofu turned out wonderfully and we wrapped up just as the rains came.  In full headlamp/flashlight glory, we made individual pizzas for dinner before sitting in the glow of candlelight chatting and roasting marshmallows for S’mores.

Beautiful Abuh

Sam's Pig Project


   

No comments:

Post a Comment